This 185-square-mile Island Is Mexico's Most Popular Cruise Port — but It's Still Home to Under-the-radar Restaurants and Local-loved Beaches (2024)

Cozumel, the largest of Mexico's islands in the Caribbean Sea, has everything you’d want from a typical beach getaway: white-sand beaches, swaying palm trees, crystal-clear water, and a laid-back lifestyle. But for some Mexican flair, it also offers Mayan ruins, traditional Yucatecan cuisine, and lots of beach bars to snag a tropical tequila-based beverage.

The 185-square-mile island happens to be the most popular cruise port in Mexico, and its main town, San Miguel, hums with foot traffic thanks to the large volume of ships that call here every year. As you can imagine, San Miguel can be an overwhelming blend of souvenir stands and overpriced restaurants, but if you know where to look, you can find the real-deal eateries and locals-only beaches that fly under the radar. Venturing beyond the small town puts you at the doorstep of a protected natural environment and some of the very best scuba diving and snorkeling on the planet.

"Cozumel is a a limestone island in the Caribbean Sea. It's basically the terminus of the second-longest barrier reef in the world, and it's one of the busiest cruise ship ports. It sees around 3,000 ships a year carrying more than four million passengers," said Zach Rabinor, CEO of Journey Mexico and a Travel + Leisure A-List advisor. "The island is dominated by the cruise trade and swarms with local merchants hawking everything from tours to time-share real estate. That said, it has its own charm and there are pockets of local flavor."

Whether you’re visiting for just a few hours, or planning to spend several nights, Cozumel has enough to fill an itinerary. We’ve rounded up some of our favorite tips on where to go, what to see, and where to eat while visiting Cozumel.

Best Hotels and Resorts

InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort Spa

A Cozumel institution, the InterContinental Presidente Cozumel Resort Spa has a lengthy white-sand beach and five-star accommodations. The chic, spacious rooms offer spectacular Caribbean Sea views, and guests who want to experience Cozumel’s world-class diving can use the on-site dive center, or unwind at the spa.

The Explorean Cozumel

This adults-only all-inclusive may not be right on the beach, but don't let that dissuade you. It's an upscale experience chock-full of inclusions, from daily guided snorkeling expeditions to horseback riding, kayaking, and driving dune buggies. It's also a quick walk to the beach at the sibling resort, Fiesta Americana Cozumel.

Iberostar Cozumel

One of the best family-friendly all-inclusive resorts in Cozumel, Iberostar Cozumel has a quiet stretch of beach, two large pools, a spa, and a kids' club. It's a great option for travelers who prefer to distance themselves from busy San Miguel and want front-row seats to the best diving on the island.

Fiesta Americana Cozumel

While The Explorean is adults-only, its sibling resort, Fiesta Americana Cozumel, welcomes families to its oceanfront location. Guests can expect a private boat dock with overwater beds, suites with balconies, and five restaurants.

Best Things to Do

Dive the Mesoamerican Reef.

Cozumel is perched at the northern tip of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System — the second-largest barrier reef in the world after the Great Barrier Reef. Teeming with wildlife, including colorful coral, a kaleidoscope of fish, sea turtles, and sharks, the reef system is one of the star attractions in Cozumel and diving is a top priority for visitors.

Snorkel Playa El Cielo.

You don't have to be PADI-certified or go very far offshore to have an epic underwater experience in Cozumel. Off the southern coast of the island is a beach called Playa El Cielo, famous for the thousands of underwater starfish scattered across the fine white sand, much like stars in the sky. El Cielo translates to "heaven," and it will be no surprise why this beach bears its name. "El Cielo is an incredible shoal/sandbar, and it's only accessible by boat. It's a 30-minute trip and absolutely worth it for those wishing to escape the more crowded beaches," said Rabinor.

Visit Isla Pasion.

As if Cozumel doesn't have enough pristine beachfront, many day trippers to the island like to pop over to the nearby uninhabited Isla Pasion. The dreamy island has crystal-clear water, sun-bleached sand, and plenty of activities to keep visitors occupied, from kayaks and hammocks to beach volleyball, buffet-style restaurants, and bars. Lots of cruise lines also offer packages for excursions to Isla Pasion, so it's easy to squeeze in a visit.

Head to the beach clubs.

Cozumel has its own picture-perfect beaches and beach clubs, too. Most day trippers visiting on a cruise will stick to the beach clubs facing the calm Caribbean Sea and Playa del Carmen skyline. These spots have restaurants, showers, and restrooms, as well as plenty of water sports. For the more local beaches, which are often less crowded and less developed, head to the eastern coast of the island. These stretches face the Atlantic Ocean and are much more rugged, albeit beautiful.

Drive around the island.

Whether on two wheels or four, the best way to see the most of Cozumel is to get out on the road. One highway circumvents the island and along the way are many different points of interest, from beach clubs to Mayan ruins to the Punta Sur Eco Beach Park.

Best Shopping

Los Cinco Soles

Being the most popular cruise port in Mexico means Cozumel has its fair share of souvenir stores. But the one to beat them all is Los Cinco Soles. Unlike other busy cruise port shops, Los Cinco Soles is at the far end of downtown and widely considered to have the best selection of handcrafts, silver, and naturally grown vanilla.

Muebles Rústicos Santa Cruz

This quirky furniture store is packed with some beautifully handcrafted wooden pieces. While you may not be able to bring that ornately carved headboard on the plane or cruise ship, you can certainly find lots of other treasures, from artwork and ceramics to cool lamps and picture frames.

Sergio's Silver

Mexican silver is a great trinket to bring home, and on Cozumel, Sergio's has the best selection of jewelry. Plus, the centrally located shop is within walking distance of the cruise terminal downtown.

Best Nightlife

The Money Bar

Cozumel locals and longtime visitors know The Money Bar well. This island institution is a must for a sundowner, with a two-for-one happy hour and live music on Thursday through Sunday evenings.

The Coconut Shack

If you’re exploring the eastern coast of the island, be sure to schedule a stop at The Coconut Shack. This ramshackle beach bar has a handful of plastic tables out back overlooking the water, a few colorful hammocks, and next-level mojitos.

Mezcalito's

While you're over on the eastern side of the island, leave some time to visit Mezcalito's, one of the oldest bars on Cozumel. Open since 1979, this watering hole offers a casual, toes-in-the-sand experience with palapa-topped umbrellas and endless Atlantic Ocean views.

No Name Bar

Tucked inside Hotel Barracuda, No Name Bar is another Cozumel staple. A beach club by day, sports bar by night, this oceanfront club has strong drinks, no cover charge, and free Wi-Fi.

El Cielo Lounge Bar

There's a certain kitsch factor at El Cielo Lounge Bar, from the neon cursive signs encouraging bad decisions to the electric blue co*cktails and clouds of hookah smoke. But that's also what devotees love about this place. Cozumel may be small, but it knows how to party into the wee hours, and you'll often find people pushing their bedtimes at El Cielo.

Best Restaurants

Aqui + Ahora

Sometimes, all you need is a strong cup of coffee and a menu that serves breakfast till noon. That's what you'll get at Aqui + Ahora, a coffee shop with a prime location across from the ferry terminal. I love this spot for its sleek decor, sea views, and long list of great juices. The Yucatan Dream 85 is a must.

Buccanos

Beach clubs are a dime a dozen on Cozumel, but Buccanos stands out in the best way. Located in the North Hotel Zone, it's centrally located with a sandy beach and laid-back vibe. It also has some of the best seafood in town. Expect to pay tourist prices, but that's the norm on Cozumel. By night, Buccanos puts on a spectacular sunset dinner experience. It's best to make reservations far in advance, if possible.

La Casita de Indio

You won't find any other experience like La Casita de Indio on Cozumel. If you're someone who loves a local connection, this is the dining experience to try. "This local spot has a family cooking for you in their own home," said Rabinor. "They even encourage you to go to the fish market and bring them the catch of the day, which they will prepare for you. They prepare a mean coconut shrimp."

Guido's

If you're craving something other than Mexican, Guido's serves up great Swiss Italian cuisine in a lovely courtyard. Rabinor said the fish carpaccio and the black linguine Frutti di Mare is excellent.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Cozumel is between December and April, particularly if you want a beach getaway. This period is the peak season, marked by sunny days and little to no rainfall. For ideal weather — not too hot and with a cool breeze at night — January and February are the best times to plan a trip.

However, if you want the best conditions for scuba diving, consider June through December. The summer is the hottest time of year, and you'll experience the most rainfall in late summer and early fall, but you'll also be able to snag considerable travel deals and see lots of activity beneath the water's surface.

If you plan to visit from August through October, you'll be traveling during peak hurricane season. Travel prices are at their lowest during this time, so you'll want to use those extra savings to get yourself some travel insurance, just in case you get rained out.

How to Get There

For an island that's only 185 square miles, there are a surprising number of ways to get there. The easiest way to reach Cozumel is to fly directly into its airport (CZM). The small Aeropuerto Internacional de Cozumel receives flights from American, Delta, Southwest, United, Volaris, Aeromexico, Air Canada, WestJet, and Sun Country Airlines.

Another easy way to get to Cozumel is to take the ferry from Playa del Carmen. The popular Ultramar ferry has continuous departures from Playa del Carmen's main pier to Cozumel. The trip is about 45 minutes.

The third way visitors get to Cozumel is via a cruise stopover. Cozumel is the busiest cruise port in Mexico, with its three piers seeing as many as seven ships at once during high season.

How to Get Around

Cozumel is a small but well-maintained island with a ring road, as well as one that bisects the island. It only takes an hour to drive around the island.

Downtown San Miguel is walkable, but if you want to go further afield, you may need some wheels. Fortunately, cabs are found around the island, but due to demand, prices can get expensive. You can rent your own set of wheels on Cozumel to have a bit more flexibility for getting around. Note that while you may see a lot of tourists on scooters, the accident rate on Cozumel is extremely high, so be sure you know what you're doing before you rent one on the island.